Thank you, Africa. Olá Brasil. (appeared on L'Express, Mauritius, July 2010)


Brazilian for a night

Thiago’s English was as broken as my Spanish, but with a generous dose of sign language and spanglish, we established a conexión in the wee hours at O.R. Tambo International in Jo’burg, my stopover between Mauritius and Cape Town. Thiago was from Brazil, the only country on the American continent to speak Portuguese, but he spoke Spanish too. The lawyer from São Paulo seemed pleased that Brazil has such a following in Isla Mauricio. And impressed when I showed off my knowledge of the minutia along Brazil’s path to glory or tears in world cup history. Dunga’s seleção just ousted Chile (3-0) for the third time in the world cup, and crazy Brazilians supporters swarmed the impressive airport like noisy yellow wasps, with Vuvezelas in lieu of antennas. With this as backdrop, I was ceremoniously adopted in Thiago’s home town following of the proud five-time world cup winners. I was gifted a splendid yellow Brazilian jersey, and promised free accommodation for 2014 edition, in Brazil. Obrigado amigos!

This time for Africa

I have been watching the availability of tickets on fifa.com fluctuate like stock values for weeks. I initially planned for USA-Algeria, after predicting that the qualification of the Yanks, my favourite team, will narrowly hang on that ultimate first round game. But when I watched the actual drama unfold at Loftus Versfeld Stadium (Landon Donovan scored the only and decisive goal in injury time), I felt a little like Paul the Octopus, and I wished I was in Pretoria.  And when I found myself humming Shakira’s wonderful waka waka at a high-profile meeting, recalling the synchronicity of the intoxicating tune with her non-lying hips, I started thinking what to pack. Also, I found comfort and inspiration in my colleague Kevin’s words of wisdom: it’s now or never!

Prices are “tuant, tuant, je te dis”, a travel agent told me. She hinted that I should get real about flying within the next few days to catch second round games - without digging too deep in my pockets.  “People have booked 6 months in advance”. She misjudged my determination. After a long night online, I was all set for a weeklong pilgrimage for the beautiful game – keeping my budget sane by backpacking, dormitories and bus travels. Three cities in six nights, with copious walking, I stretched the limits of light travel – everything with a slight chance of underutilisation got the axe, except for underwear and an unfittingly fat 600-page Dan Brown. 

The backpackers spirit of Ubuntu

In hindsight, I was glad hotel prices were outrageous. So, dorms and bathrooms were not the only things that were shared: backpacking was the chance to meet real people looking, speaking, and behaving so differently – but all eager to share, given prevailing Ubuntu. It’s no cliché: sports unite and level.

Joe, my room-mate at Riverlodge Backpackers in Cape Town was a longhorn (i.e. alumnus from University of Texas), archrivals my own university, Texas A&M. Talking of a small world. Eva, a German was spending six months in South Africa, working at the lodge to pay for the trip. She was not supporting Germany though. “Too mechanical; they don’t play, they work soccer”.  

I showed off my multi-lingualism given half a chance, until I met Andreas, who spoke English, French, Spanish, Italian and even Japanese – only to realise that he was actually German. Or the Portuguese I befriended on the way to the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront (the most visited place in South Africa) - I thought he knew all European languages, only to find him casually switch to Zulu, to greet friendly hosts.

I was glad when the Spaniards in the airplane told me “no inglés”, for it was a chance to practise my Spanish. But when I turned out to be among the few English speakers, and thus an obligation to be seated at the exit door in case of emergency, I panicked a little a bit, and wondered what is the Spanish version of “how the hell do we get out here?”.

The whole week felt like a cheerful UN gathering, with encounters of people of all colours of the rainbow, including the Trinadian-born Canadian, married to a Spaniard, and cheering for Argentina.

Ronaldo plays like a girl

It was cold and rainy on my first day in Cape Town. But this stunning coastal city at the foot of the awe-inspiring Table Mountain, was alive and vibrant, anticipating a sumptuous battle of European neighbours and historical conquerors, Spain and Portugal. The Fan Fest was the ideal place for pre-game warm up, and to purchase essential equipment like Vuvuzelas, and maybe get a chance to talk to Nelson Mandela.  The most popular man at Green Market Square sported a huge hat made of broken eggs and a claim to be in touch with the most revered man alive, on the phone or through facebook!  I finally could not chat with Mandela, but tipped the “egg-man” nonetheless, after queuing up for a picture.

I watched Japan lose to Paraguay on penalties at the Waterfront bar, over beer, calamari and chat with an Englishman working in Washington, who held a ticket for the final.   We discussed the fine points of the game, and shared our preference for Japan, which along with South Korea, have shown West Asian efficiency, realism, poise in their games. “Just like they run the countries”, he remarked.

On the way to the brand new and artistically appealing Green Point stadium in Cape Town, Vuvuzelas were getting louder, and allegiances more vocal. “Ronaldo is gay; he plays like a girl”, a Spanish enthusiast claimed. Portuguese fans took the political incorrectness in stride.  And finally, my first world cup game live. It was a really special moment; a small part of African history in the making. I decided to support the Spaniards, despite my disappointment of not seeing the Brazilian-born defensive midfielder, Marcos Senna, the team's unsung star instrumental in Spain’s European glory two years back.

But being a Manchester United fan, I switched my allegiance after Villa’s 63rd minute goal that sealed the fate of the Iberian rivalry. During the game, my eyes were on Ronaldo, not to double check his sexual inclination, but to see how he moves without the ball. Placement and motion for receiving a pass is as important that the actual ball-passing, something not adequately appreciated on TV. I was perplexed to see Ronaldo’s detachment from mid-field play. He was too far ahead, inaccessible. Clearly though, every ball he touched smelled danger. But there was a lack of belief on the Portuguese side, and my prayers for more goals, extra time, penalties, and drama were not answered. I made up by once again switching side to España, an excuse to join the fiesta in restaurants and clubs.

The perfect day

If I were to choose a day to live over and over gain, like Bill Murray in the witty Groundhog Day, my 24 hours in Port Elizabeth would be among the top candidates.  I was greeted by a marvelous weather, a delightful city and some great Dutch hosts, ready for the battle of continents against Brazilians. Koen, who checked me in Kaya Kaya Lodge earlier, came out with a beer can on the balcony early in the morning, and stared at the magnificent sea view told me: “Wonderful weather, Netherlands beats Brazil, what else can you expect?” He seemed sincere about his life expectations.

After a lazy stroll along the Kings Beach, I took a free ride to the official FIFA Fan Fest at St. George Park, where the famous Netherlands supporters held a pre-game party. It was a “Hup Holland Hup” all- orange costume party: air hostesses, farmers, ostriches, tigers, and my favourite: an orange pope, the slightly less pious version managing lager, cigar, and clinging hostesses with Casilla’s dexterity with the ball. The great organisation among fans was a sign to me. The clockwork orange is at work.

Nonetheless, I stuck by Brazil and headed to the iconic and spectacular Nelson Mandela Bay Stadium, to join the yellow wave of support. It was thrilling. Sunshine, gorgeous Brazilian girls, friendly fans, samba, electricity in the air, and more gorgeous Brazilian girls. Fans were in ecstasy when Robhino, who often seem like indulging in diski dance moves with the ball, scored early in the first half.

But then the second-half saw a metamorphosed team oranje, and the Brazilian euphoria gave way to despair. The unconceivable was happening: no world cup to bring back home. Cheers gradually yielded to desolation, as Wesley Sneijder buried the ball twice. When the linesman decided that playmaker Kaká was offside, or the flying Robben was in genuine agony after an alleged illegal tackle, he was called “puta, puta” in choir-like unison. My Portuguese got a little better.

As the final whistle was blown, it clearly sounded more painful than the most irritating Vuvuzela. Brazilian men cried openly, women busy comforting the mates like children, with a clear lie: it is just a game. Because whoever thought that football is a matter of life and death must be crazy: it’s more important than that! But soon there was recollection. Orange fans were embraced and congratulated with incredible sportsmanship. The party must go on.

Does size matter?

I had the luxury of watching eventual finalists Spain and Netherlands, not to mention Brazil and Ronaldo. But my favourite game was in a cricket stadium in Port Elizabeth, turned into a Fan Fest with a giant screen, with a crowd united behind Ghana’s and the continent’s claim on history: a berth to the semis. I did not know much about Ghana: it was somewhere in Africa, and means terribly unfashionable in Mauritius. But I cheered every attack of the Black Eagles, agonised when the sensational Diego Forlán got into shooting range. I never switched allegiance this time. The elation of the last minute penalty, the distress of Gyan’s miss, made up a real roller-coaster of emotions.

I just tried to imagine how it would be like if Mauritius was in Ghana’s boots. I proudly bought a quadricolore at Plaisance, but it looked so small once off our shores - and this has nothing to do with our 728 square miles (Uruguay, twice world champions and semi-finalist this year has just 3.5 million people). When asked about the favorite sport in Mauritius, I lied and said “football”. The truth, of course, is that our favorite is gambling, and athletic horses are more popular than their human counterparts. It dawned on me: I do not know any team or player in our premiere league, or whatever it is called. The situation is pathetic, and I wonder when we shall be blessed with the chills of that game that can send us to the World Cup.

Need tickets?

FIFA warned about non-transferability of tickets and identity checks at the stadia. This was hardly enforced, and actually tickets were widely available for most of the games. So my appetite for a sumptuous Argentina-Germany showdown grew – but then that meant curtailing post-game festivities in Port Elizabeth. I finally stayed on the aptly named Friendly City, but reached Cape Town on time to watch German celebrations – although it was a little morose at Backpackers on Castle, where I stayed with stunned Argentineans, waking up painfully to the fact that Maradona relied too much on individual skills at the expense of sound tactics. 

The good, the bad and the ugly

Overall the organisation was magnificent: world-class infrastructure along with world-class service, with a personal touch. When I enquired about the office to pick up my precious tickets at Jo’burg airport, the official climbed up two floors to drop me right there, like locating an item in an obscure supermarket aisle.

Istar came down to Cape Town from Spain to work at the restaurant and enjoy the world cup. She echoed a popular sentiment:  “It is simply fabulous. No problems at all with fans. No incidents. And I am happy South Africa at least beat France.” Both Istar and owner Sacha were delighted about business: “Sales have gone up several times”. Not surprising, given that the restaurant is on Long Street, the busiest place for food, and late-night partying after the games at Green Point stadium.

Nonetheless, the ugly side of South Africa was never too far away. When I missed my train stop, and landed in nowhereland, I was scolded like a teenager by the train driver for being careless and exposing myself to danger, as if it’s the duty of muggers to punish naïve tourists. I grew a little more understanding, when along the scenic garden route, what really stuck to my mind were shacks and shanty towns, many of them being the unfortunate impact of the World Cup.

I hesitatingly boarded my taxi back to the airport, still considering an extra couple of days to a potential semi-final in Cape Town. Like all South Africans I talked to, the taxi driver was really proud. Complacent about Bafana, Bafana, happy for the black eagles, happy for Africa. When I asked about business, it has not been as good as he expected. “World Cup was good, but 77% of the benefits went to politicians, 35% to big businesses, and the poor like me: just 2%”. I doubted the scientific validity of his economic analysis. But I understood what he meant: the reality of capitalism, where opportunity knocks louder at the fortunate.

Olá Brasil

On the flight back, I started making my calculations: how much would it cost for World Cup 2014, in samba style, with the event going back to Brazil after 64 years. Two less drinks a day for the next four years – you should be able make it. If the traffic to Port Louis gets magically fluid, that too would save you enough (if the traffic situation has not yet gotten you furious, maybe this perspective will!). Anyway, any excuse for more unforgettable futebol moments will do.    

World Cup 2010 lingo guide

Ayoba: Multipurpose slang, adaptable to mean: agreed, fun, awesome, goodbye, or cool (like Puyol’s hair).

Bafana Bafana: South African national men football team; literally, “the boys, the boys” (for South Africa's senior women's team, Banyana Banyana).

Diski: Dance with soccer-based moves. Like the Macarena - only much, much better with an imaginary ball.

Jabulani: controversial Adidas ball, which literally means “rejoice” or “celebrate”. With apparently a mind of its own, it never lived up to its name.

Ke Nako: It’s possible. It’s time. Indeed, it was time for Africa, a message ingrained in our minds through Shakira’s tunes.

Waka waka:  Do it, do it. Yet another double take. Anyway, you did it, you did it, Africa.

Ubuntu: humanness, interconnected among people, in South African Bantu language.

Vuvuzela: Metre-long plastic trumpet shaped on an antelope horn, and sounds like angry bees after losing on penalties. Previous incarnation used to summon villagers to meetings. Nowadays, no self-respecting football fan should be without one.

Zakumi: Official anthropomorphic sporty leopard World Cup mascot - with an attitude. Starting with ZA (as in domain name suffix for South Africa), and “kumi” means ten, as in the year 2010.

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